It is said, the tuxedo was introduced somewhere in the mid 19 cent, but the special smoking attire was in use in 17 cent already. 

Reportedly in the 1880s the tail-less dinner jacket appeared on the scene with the combination of bow-tie and trousers and set the stage for men’s formal-wear to this day.  The legend was that the Prince of Wales, Edward VII, originated the style in the 1860s as an informal option to the “tails.”  And when on a visit to England James Brown Potter, who co-founded the Tuxedo Park resort in New York, saw the style on the prince, he commissioned his own and debuted it at a resort gathering.  Another claim was that Griswold Lorillard, also of Tuxedo Park, and friends invented the jacket on a whim.  However it happened, the tail-less dinner jacket was forever associated with the park and led to the name “tux.”

 

In 1966 Yves Saint Laurent couture collection featured a style that divided fashion critics: a black tailored tuxedo with a satin side stripe, worn with a white ruffled shirt. He called the look ‘Le Smoking’. This garment, which was meant to be worn in a smoking room to protect one’s clothing from the smell of cigars, was originally reserved only for men. Yves Saint Laurent used the same codes but adapted it to the female body.

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"Jacket is a staple garment of the wardrobe that should be learned in order to understand the architecture of outwear dress making. Once you are proficient in constructing and assembling a jacket the whole range of other clothes are open to you" - EWST fashionlab

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In our course the students learn to approach tuxedo style jacket through application of draping method. Elena shows how original men’s cut was interpreted and adapted to women’s  jacket. You will follow draping steps, learn how to transfer the drape onto paper and create patterns. Two methods of draping tailored collar and two types of tailored collar will be demonstrated.  Drafting two-piece sleeve and creation of sleeve patterns will finalize the work of generating full set of patterns for tuxedo jacket.

The course is all-inclusive, Elena details  every step of jacket draping, pattern making, and sleeve construction. Additionally, she shares a valuable insights including pre-production couture ironing. 

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6 months access to the video-lessons

More than 4 hour of lessons record

Tutor support and feedback

Certification

 

Lessons content:

 

Preparing the dress-form for jacket draping
Placing fabric
Draping the front
Fitting the front &marking
Draping the back
Shaping and marking the back
Draping and marking side panel
Completing the front &shaping the lapel
Various lapel shapes
Preparing drape for trueing
Trueing the front
Trueing the back
Trueing the side panel
Creating paper pattern front
Creating paper pattern, back
Creating paper pattern,side panel
Verifying paper patterns
Evaluating jacket prototype
Draping collar with peak lapel
Creating pattern for collar with peak lapel
Draping notched collar rounded shape
Creating pattern for notched collar rounded shape
Measurements for drafting the sleeve
Drafting sleeve base
Constructing two-pieces sleeve
Sleeve evaluation
Ironing shaping the cut